SPECIALITY FOOD
Risi e bisi, risotto with peas
Radicchio Trevisano (red chicory), try it with risotto
or pasta.
Tiramisu, rich mascarpone desert.
Cichetti, glasses of wine and finger food.
RESTAURANTS
Antica Carbonera, Calle Bembo, an authentic trattoria
Caffe Lavena, pizza San Marco, is popular with locals as a pizza bar but there is also good coffee.
Recommended restaurants in Dorsoduro include Ai Quatro Feri 28 in calle lunga San Barnaba (Vaporetto Ca’Rezzonico) which has insalata di polpo (octopus salad) and gnocchi di zucca con gamberoni e amorini (pumpkin gnocchi with king prawns and turnip heads); and L’Incontro 29 on rio tera Canal (Vaporetto Ca’Rezzonico) which has a Sardinian chef and menu. Cuisine includes porceddu arrosto (roast suckling pig), tagliata di manzo (steak) and Sardinian wine. Expect to pay about Euro 30 for a meal in Dorsoduro.
In Chioggia there is the Ostaria al Penzo, calle larga Bersaglio. All the menus here offer seafood selections and the prices are cheaper than in Venice.
If you insist on eating in San Marco try some of these options:
Al Bacareto 1, calle delle Botteghe (Vaporetto Sant’Angelo or San Samuele). A family run trattoria. Moderately priced.
Gran Caffe Ristorante Quadri 2, pizza San Marco (Vaporetto Vallaresso or San Zaccaria). Sumptuous settings and prices!
Le Bistrot de Venise 3, calle dei Fabbri (Vaporetto Rialto). Tourist menus with traditional dishes. Moderate prices and poetry readings and art exhibitions.
Vini da Arturo 4, calle degli Assassini (Vaporetto Rialto or Sant’Angelo). The menu features steak, salads and creamy tiramisu. Moderate to expensive.
CAFFES
In the 18th century 24 coffee shops graced the piazza San Marco alone. Today it is still the centre for coffee drinking although it can be touristy and expensve. The two landmark cafes are Caffe Florian and the Gran Caffe Quadri and a purchase at either will allow you to sit on the chairs in the square as long as you like, but sitting here does cost more although you will then be able to enjoy the resident orchestra in comfort.
The original Harry’s Bar is also in Venice.
If you want a cheaper and friendly café going experience there are numerous local caffee-pasticcerie in every neighbourhood.
Other caffes in the San Marco area include:
Bar all-Angolo, campo Santo Stefano (vaporetto Sant’Angelo) - tramezzini (sandwiches) and panini (rolls).
Bar al Teatro, campo San Fantin (Vaporetto Sant’Angelo) - tramezzini (sandwiches) and cigarettes
MARKETS
Mega 1, Campo Santa Margherita.
Supermarkets
Standa supermarket, Strada Nova.
BARS
For Venetian cichetti try 4 Ferri, Calle Lunga San Barnaba
Devil’s Forest, calle degli Stagneri in San Marco (Vaporetto Rialto) draws a
young and lively crowd.
